If you raise backyard chickens, you’ve probably heard of the deep litter method (also called deep bedding). Some chicken keepers swear by it for reducing coop cleanouts and improving winter warmth, while others worry about odors or health issues. The truth is simple: when done correctly, the deep litter method is an effective, low-maintenance system that keeps your coop cleaner, your chickens healthier, and produces valuable compost. When done incorrectly, it can lead to moisture buildup, ammonia smells, and respiratory problems.
Let’s walk through how the deep litter method works, why it’s effective, and how to manage it properly.
What Is the Deep Litter Method?
The deep litter method is a controlled composting system inside your chicken coop. You begin with a thick layer of absorbent bedding and add fresh material over time as manure accumulates. Chickens naturally scratch and mix the bedding, while beneficial microbes break down waste into compost.
This method is especially useful in colder months because it:
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Reduces frequent coop cleanouts
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Adds natural insulation and gentle warmth from decomposition
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Minimizes odors when properly balanced
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Creates nutrient-rich compost for the garden
It’s important to note: deep litter is managed composting, not neglect.
Why the Deep Litter Method Works
Successful deep litter systems rely on four key elements working together:
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Carbon (bedding material) to absorb nitrogen from manure
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Moisture control, keeping bedding damp but never wet
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Oxygen, provided by chicken scratching or light stirring
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Ventilation to remove moisture and ammonia
If any one of these is missing, problems can develop. When balanced correctly, the coop stays fresh, dry, and healthy.
Best Bedding Materials for Deep Litter
Choosing the right bedding is essential for deep litter success.
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Pine shavings are the most popular option due to affordability, absorbency, and compostability. Use coarse flakes and avoid cedar.
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Hemp bedding is highly absorbent and excellent for odor control, though more expensive.
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Straw works well as a top layer but should not be used alone because it mats easily.
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Dried leaves can be mixed in for extra carbon if kept dry.
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Wood chips are better suited for outdoor runs than enclosed coops.
Sand is not considered deep litter, as it does not compost or provide insulation.
How to Start the Deep Litter Method
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Start with a clean, dry coop to eliminate trapped moisture.
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Add 4–8 inches of bedding such as pine shavings or hemp.
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Let chickens do the work by scratching and aerating naturally.
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Add fresh bedding as needed when the surface feels damp, compacted, or lightly odorous.
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Check weekly for dryness, airflow, and smells. Earthy is good; ammonia means action is needed.
What Helps—and What Hurts
Adding more dry bedding and improving ventilation solves most issues. Occasional fluffing helps maintain airflow. Small amounts of garden soil or finished compost can introduce microbes, but they aren’t required.
Avoid diatomaceous earth, harsh cleaners, and hydrated lime. Agricultural lime should be used cautiously and only in tiny amounts if ventilation is excellent.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Treating deep litter as “never clean”
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Allowing bedding to stay wet
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Blocking ventilation for warmth
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Using too little bedding
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Ignoring early ammonia smells
If ammonia appears, immediately improve airflow and add dry bedding.
When to Do a Full Clean-Out
Most chicken keepers remove deep litter once per year, usually in spring. Clean out sooner if moisture or ammonia persists. The payoff is finished compost ready for garden use.
Signs Your Deep Litter Is Working
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Mild, earthy smell
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Dry surface bedding
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Healthy chickens with no breathing issues
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A noticeably warmer coop in winter
Final Thoughts
The deep litter method isn't a lazy shortcut—it's a balanced, rewarding system that rewards observation and care. When carbon, moisture, oxygen, and ventilation align, it delivers healthier hens, less work, and fantastic compost.
Healthy, happy chickens lay the best eggs. If you're just starting or troubleshooting your setup, take it slow and adjust as you go. You've got this—because every chick (and hen) matters.
At Incubator Warehouse, we love sharing practical tips like this to help hobby farmers succeed. If you're hatching your own chicks or need reliable supplies to support your flock, check out our incubators, candlers, and more at incubatorwarehouse.com. Questions? Drop them below—we're here to help!