To clean a HovaBator between hatches: unplug it and let it cool, remove all shells, fluff, and debris, disassemble the removable parts, wash everything in warm water with mild dish soap, disinfect with a diluted bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) or a poultry-safe disinfectant, rinse thoroughly, and let every piece air dry completely before reassembling and storing. For styrofoam HovaBator models, avoid alcohol and harsh solvents, since they can pit or discolor the foam.
If you have ever opened your HovaBator right after a hatch, you already know the smell. Wet shell membrane, chick fluff, and a sticky film across the styrofoam base that seems to get into every seam and vent hole. It is not glamorous, but it is one of the most important jobs in the entire incubation process. A HovaBator that goes back into service dirty is not just unpleasant to look at. It is carrying leftover bacteria, mold spores, and organic residue straight into your next batch of eggs.
This guide walks through exactly how to clean HovaBator units, both the classic styrofoam models like the 1588 and 1602N Genesis, and the hard-shell HovaBator styles, between every hatch, step by step, with the right products for each material.
Why Cleaning a HovaBator Between Hatches Actually Matters
A HovaBator spends 21 days, longer for waterfowl, holding warm, humid air in an enclosed box. That is exactly the environment bacteria and mold need to multiply. When a hatch finishes, the incubator is left with broken shell, membrane, down, and moisture, all of which start breaking down almost immediately. If that residue is still there when the next set of eggs goes in, you are not incubating in a clean environment anymore. You are incubating inside a low-grade petri dish.
The most common consequence is omphalitis, sometimes called yolk sac infection, caused by bacteria like E. coli or Pseudomonas that thrive in old shell residue. Newly hatched chicks with unhealed navels are especially vulnerable, and an infection can spread through a batch quickly. High humidity combined with leftover organic material also creates ideal conditions for mold, including Aspergillus fumigatus, which causes a respiratory illness in chicks known as brooder pneumonia. Neither of these problems is something you can fix once eggs are already in the incubator. Prevention has to happen during cleaning, before the next set goes in.
There is a second, quieter cost too. Dried shell residue and mineral deposits from hard water can build up in vents, on fan blades, and around thermostat sensors over multiple hatches. That buildup can throw off airflow and humidity readings, which means your next hatch rate suffers even if you never trace the problem back to a dirty incubator.
What You Will Need
Gather your supplies before you start so you are not mid-clean with wet hands, digging through a cabinet.
| Supply | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Rubber gloves | Skin protection from disinfectants and biological residue |
| Soft-bristle brush (like the EZ-Clean Chick Brush) | Scrubbing trays, vents, and mesh without scratching plastic |
| Mild dish soap | Breaking down grease, residue, and shell debris |
| Bleach or poultry-safe disinfectant | Killing bacteria and mold spores after washing |
| Measuring spoon | Getting the dilution ratio right |
| Soft cloths or paper towels | Wiping surfaces and drying parts |
| Cotton swabs or old toothbrush | Reaching corners, seams, and vent holes |
| A sink or basin large enough for the base | Soaking removable pieces |
If any of your trays, turner components, or wick pads are cracked, warped, or missing, this is also the right moment to check Incubator Warehouse's stock of Hova-Bator replacement parts and pick up what you need before your next hatch, rather than discovering it mid-lockdown.
Shop genuine Hova-Bator replacement parts, from turner trays to wick pads, and get your incubator ready before the next set of eggs goes in.
Shop Hova-Bator PartsStep 1: Unplug and Let It Cool Completely
Never clean a HovaBator while it is warm or still plugged in. Heat can cause burns, and cleaning solution on a hot thermostat or heating element is a bad combination. Once the last chicks are out and moved to the brooder, unplug the unit and give it time to reach room temperature before you touch anything electrical or apply any liquid.
Step 2: Remove All Shells, Fluff, and Debris
This is the messiest part, but it goes faster than most people expect. Take out the hatching tray, any egg turner components, wire racks, and liners. Use a dry paper towel or a small brush to sweep out loose shell fragments and down first, before any liquid touches the surfaces. Getting the bulk of the solid debris out dry keeps you from smearing it around once you add soap and water, and it keeps your sink drain from clogging with feathers and shell bits.
Check every corner and seam. Chick fluff has a habit of working itself into vent holes, thermostat housings, and the gap where the lid meets the base. A cotton swab or an old toothbrush handles these spots well.
Step 3: Wash the Removable Parts
Pull apart everything that can safely be separated: the hatching tray, egg turner tray, wire mesh floor, humidity wicks (these usually get replaced rather than reused), and any plastic liners. Wash these pieces in warm water with mild dish soap, using a soft brush like the EZ-Clean Chick Brush for mesh surfaces and corners where residue clings stubbornly. Never put HovaBator parts in a dishwasher. The heat and detergent can warp plastic components and damage sensitive parts.
Rinse everything completely. Leftover soap residue is not just a cosmetic issue. It can affect future hatches, so rinse until the water runs clear and there is no slipperiness left on any surface.
Step 4: Disinfect Every Surface
Once parts are washed and rinsed, it is time to disinfect. A diluted bleach solution of about one tablespoon of bleach per gallon of water works well and is gentle enough for most incubator materials. A poultry-safe commercial disinfectant is a good alternative if you would rather avoid mixing bleach yourself.
For the styrofoam HovaBator models, such as the 1588 or the Genesis 1602N, be careful with what you use. Avoid alcohol-based cleaners and harsh solvents, since these can pit, discolor, or slowly break down the foam over repeated cleanings. Stick to the diluted bleach ratio above, or a disinfectant labeled safe for foam and plastic surfaces.
Apply the disinfectant to all interior surfaces, including the base, lid, vents, and every removable component. This is also the moment to wipe down the fan housing, if your model has a circulated air fan kit, with a damp cloth, since fan blades and grilles are a common spot for dust and dried residue to accumulate.
Dwell time matters here more than most people realize. Spraying a surface and immediately wiping it off does very little, because it is the contact time that actually kills pathogens, not the act of application. Leave the disinfectant on the surface for the full time listed on the product label, typically several minutes, before wiping or rinsing.
Step 5: Rinse and Dry Thoroughly
After the disinfectant has had time to work, rinse all surfaces and parts with clean water to remove any residue, especially if you used bleach. Then the most overlooked step: dry everything completely. Set parts out on a towel or in direct sunlight if you have the option, since UV exposure adds an extra layer of natural disinfection. Do not reassemble or store your HovaBator while any part is still damp. Trapped moisture is exactly what invites mold to grow before the incubator's next use, and it can also cause corrosion in metal components like turner motors and thermostat contacts.
Step 6: Reassemble and Do a Test Run
Once every piece is fully dry, put the HovaBator back together. Before you load your next batch of eggs, plug it in and let it run for several hours to confirm the thermostat and, if applicable, the fan are working correctly and holding a stable temperature. This is a good time to double check your egg turner cycles through smoothly, and to verify your thermometer and hygrometer readings against a separate, dedicated unit. The IncuTherm Plus Hatch Monitor gives you an independent temperature and humidity reading placed right at egg level, which is useful for catching problems before eggs go in rather than after.
If you noticed any cracked trays, a sluggish turner motor, or a wick pad that would not come clean during this process, now is the time to replace it, not three days into your next incubation cycle.
The IncuTherm Plus gives you an independent temperature and humidity reading right at egg level, so you know your HovaBator is ready before the next batch goes in.
Shop the IncuTherm PlusHow Often Should You Clean a HovaBator?
At minimum, clean and disinfect your HovaBator after every single hatch, no exceptions, even if you plan to start a new batch right away. Beyond that:
| Timing | What to Do |
|---|---|
| After every hatch | Full clean and disinfect as described above |
| Mid-incubation spot checks | Clean any cracked egg or spill immediately rather than waiting for the post-hatch clean |
| Monthly, if running continuously | Inspect vents, fan blades, and thermostat sensors for dust or mineral buildup |
| Before long-term storage | Full clean, confirm the unit is bone dry, then store covered in a cool, dry space away from pests and sunlight |
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using alcohol or harsh solvents on styrofoam models. It seems like a quick disinfecting option, but repeated use degrades the foam over time and can leave it brittle or discolored.
Cleaning while the unit is still warm. Beyond the burn risk, cleaning solution reacting with a warm thermostat or heating element is not worth the shortcut.
Skipping the dwell time. A quick spray-and-wipe does not give disinfectant enough contact time to actually kill bacteria and mold spores.
Reassembling before everything is fully dry. Trapped moisture undoes most of the work you just did.
Ignoring the fan and vent holes. Circulated air models pull dust and fine debris through the fan constantly, and that buildup is easy to forget since it is not visible from the outside.
Ignoring worn wicks, cracked trays, or a sluggish turner. Cleaning is also the best time to inspect. It is far easier to swap a replacement part now than to troubleshoot a failed hatch later.
FAQs
Can I use bleach on a styrofoam HovaBator?
Yes, a light dilution, about one tablespoon of bleach per gallon of water, is generally safe for styrofoam HovaBator models and will not damage the foam the way alcohol or stronger solvents can. Always rinse thoroughly afterward and let the foam dry completely before reassembling.
How long should I let my HovaBator dry before storing it?
Give every part at least a full day to dry completely. If any moisture remains trapped inside foam or plastic, it can corrode metal components or create a breeding ground for mold before the unit's next use.
Can I put HovaBator parts in the dishwasher?
No. The heat and detergent used in dishwashers can warp plastic trays, damage turner components, and degrade parts not designed for such exposure. Hand washing with mild dish soap is the safer choice.
What causes a bad hatch even when temperature and humidity were correct?
Bacterial or fungal contamination left over from a previous hatch is one of the most overlooked causes of a poor hatch rate. Even with perfect temperature and humidity control, pathogens surviving in unseen corners, fan blades, or vent holes can affect developing embryos.
Do I need a separate hatcher unit?
Not necessarily, but many hatchers with two incubators use one strictly for incubating and a second strictly for hatching. This keeps the mess and bacterial load of hatching day contained to one unit, so the primary incubator stays cleaner between cycles.
Proper cleaning and sanitizing of a HovaBator after every hatch is one of the simplest ways to protect your hatch rate. Stock up on parts and monitoring tools before your next batch goes in.
Shop Hova-Bator Parts Read the Full Maintenance GuideEvery hatch starts with a clean incubator. Make it part of your routine, and your hatch rates will show it. For more hatching guides like this one, browse the Incubation Learning Center.