If you have ever topped off a HovaBator's water channels twice a day just to watch the humidity swing anyway, you already know why the HumidiKit exists. It is Incubator Warehouse's automatic humidity system, and once it is installed correctly, it takes the daily guesswork out of hatching. This guide walks through the full HovaBator HumidiKit installation, model by model, so you can set it up once and stop babysitting your incubator.
Quick answer: The HumidiKit installs on a HovaBator in about 10 to 15 minutes. Feed the tubing through a ½ inch vent hole, place the humidity probe at egg height away from the fan, connect the distilled water bottle, set your target humidity on the hygrostat, and allow 24 hours for the reading to stabilize before incubating eggs.
What the HumidiKit Actually Does
The HumidiKit is an automatic incubator humidity control system built around a digital hygrostat, a small humidifier unit, and expandable tubing. Instead of you refilling water troughs and hoping the humidity lands in range, the hygrostat continuously reads the air inside the incubator and cycles the humidifier on and off to hold your target percentage. In many tabletop incubator setups, the one-liter bottle lasts several days to about a week, though actual runtime depends on your room's ambient humidity, the species you are hatching, and how often the vents are opened. Distilled water is recommended to keep mineral buildup from shortening the unit's life.
It is compatible with most HovaBator models, including the HovaBator 1588 (Genesis), the HovaBator 1602N, and the HovaBator 2370, because installation only requires a ½ inch vent hole and enough room for the probe and tubing.
What You Will Need
-
Your HumidiKit (hygrostat, humidifier unit, tubing, and 1-liter bottle)
-
Distilled water
-
A HovaBator incubator with at least one open ½ inch vent hole
-
A nearby power outlet
-
Optional: a separate thermometer and hygrometer to cross-check the hygrostat's reading during the first hatch
Step by Step: HumidiKit HovaBator Setup
1. Unbox and check the parts
Lay out the humidifier unit, the digital hygrostat with its probe, the expandable tubing, and the 1-liter bottle. Confirm nothing was damaged in shipping before you start feeding tubing into the incubator, since it is much easier to spot a cracked fitting now than after everything is threaded through the vent.
2. Choose your vent hole
Every HovaBator model has ½ inch vent holes along the top or sides. Pick one close to where you plan to place the humidifier unit outside the cabinet, and one that will not interfere with your egg turner or the viewing window. On the HovaBator 1588 and 2370, the rear or side vents usually give the cleanest run of tubing.
3. Feed the tubing through the vent
Push the expandable tubing through the chosen vent hole from outside the incubator. The tubing is designed to stretch, so you have some flexibility in how far the humidifier sits from the cabinet. Leave a little slack inside the incubator so the tube end can rest a few inches above the egg trays rather than pointing directly at the eggs.
4. Position the hygrostat probe
This step is where most installation complaints actually come from. The probe needs to sit inside the incubator at roughly egg height, away from the fan's direct airflow and away from the humidifier's tubing outlet. If the probe sits too close to the fan or the mist outlet, it will read artificially high or low, and the hygrostat will cycle incorrectly. A good spot is along the side wall, clipped or rested so it will not shift when you rotate eggs.
5. Mount the hygrostat unit outside the cabinet
Set the digital hygrostat somewhere visible, either on top of the incubator or on a nearby shelf. You will be checking and adjusting it during the first few hatches, so keep it within easy reach rather than tucked behind the unit. A clean hygrostat setup now saves you from reaching around cables and tubing later.
6. Fill the bottle with distilled water
Fill the 1-liter bottle with distilled water and connect it to the humidifier unit. Tap water works in a pinch, but mineral deposits build up faster and can clog the misting mechanism over time, so distilled water is the better habit to start with.
7. Set your target humidity
Turn on the hygrostat and set it to your species' incubation range, generally around 45 to 50 percent for most poultry eggs during the setting period and higher during lockdown. Refer to the Incubation Learning Center for species-specific humidity targets if you are hatching quail, duck, or waterfowl eggs, since their ranges differ from chicken eggs.
8. Plug it in and let it stabilize
Once everything is connected, plug in the HumidiKit and close up the incubator. Give it a full 24 hours before trusting the reading. Humidity takes longer than temperature to settle, and opening the incubator repeatedly during that window will just reset the clock.
Need replacement tubing or a new probe? If your HumidiKit's mist output has dropped off or the tubing has cracked with age, genuine parts will get your humidity control back to accurate readings.
Shop HumidiKit Replacement Parts →HovaBator Humidity Control by Model
|
Model |
Vent Location |
Best Probe Placement |
|
HovaBator 1588 (Genesis) HumidiKit |
Rear or side vents |
Side wall at egg height, clear of the digital control center's airflow |
|
HovaBator 1602N |
Top and side vents |
Side wall, away from the humidifier's tubing outlet since this is a still air model |
|
HovaBator 2370 |
Side vents near the fan |
Opposite side of the cabinet from the fan, so forced air does not skew the reading |
Common Installation Mistakes

-
Placing the probe too close to the fan: This causes the hygrostat to under-read humidity and overcompensate, leading to swings instead of stability.
-
Aiming the tubing directly at the eggs: Direct misting can create wet spots on the shells instead of raising ambient humidity evenly.
-
Using tap water: It works short term, but mineral scale builds up in the humidifier and shortens its lifespan.
-
Judging the system too early: Humidity readings drift for the first day as the incubator seals and adjusts. Wait it out before you start troubleshooting.
-
Forgetting the weekly refill: The 1-liter bottle typically needs a top-up about once a week in tabletop incubators, more often in drier climates or larger cabinets.
Test and Calibrate the HumidiKit After Installation
Do not assume the hygrostat's number on day one is the true humidity inside your incubator. Digital hygrostats can drift a few points out of the box, and a quick calibration check catches that before it affects your hatch.
-
Compare against a second hygrometer: Place a separate thermometer and hygrometer inside the incubator, positioned a few inches from the HumidiKit probe but not touching it or sitting in the direct mist path.
-
Acceptable variance: A difference of up to 3 to 5 percent between the two readings is normal for consumer-grade sensors. Anything wider than that suggests the probe is catching direct airflow or mist, or that one of the sensors needs replacing.
-
How long to test: Let both readings run for a full 24 to 48 hours before adjusting anything. Humidity fluctuates naturally as the incubator seals, and as eggs are turned, so a short test window will mislead you.
-
When to adjust the setpoint: If your second hygrometer consistently reads higher or lower than the hygrostat after that window, adjust the HumidiKit's setpoint by the difference rather than chasing the display number exactly.
Recommended Humidity by Hatch Stage
Humidity needs to change over the course of incubation, and the HumidiKit's setpoint should move with them.
|
Stage |
Chicken Eggs |
Notes |
|
Days 1 to 18 (setting) |
45 to 50 percent |
Keep steady; avoid large swings from repeated lid opening |
|
Days 18 to 21 (lockdown) |
65 to 70 percent |
Raise the setpoint 2 to 3 days before hatch to soften the membrane for pipping |
Waterfowl, quail, and reptile eggs run on different humidity curves, so check the Incubation Learning Center for species-specific numbers before setting your target.
Troubleshooting Humidity That Will Not Rise
If the hygrostat is running but humidity stays flat, work through these in order:
-
Confirm the water bottle still has water and the tubing has no kinks blocking the mist line.
-
Check that the vent hole the tubing runs through is not letting more air escape than the humidifier can offset. Partially closing unused vents can help.
-
Make sure the probe is not sitting in a cold draft near the vent, which can cause a falsely low reading.
-
In very dry climates, one HumidiKit may not be enough for a large cabinet incubator. This is more of an issue for large-capacity units than for standard HovaBator tabletop models.
Cleaning the HumidiKit Between Hatches
Mineral scale and organic residue build up in the humidifier chamber over a hatch cycle, especially if tap water was used at any point. Empty and rinse the water bottle, wipe down the tubing's interior where accessible, and run a short cycle with distilled water only before storing or reusing the unit. This keeps mist output consistent from one hatch to the next.
Automatic Humidity System for HovaBator: Is It Worth Adding
If you currently hatch by manually refilling water channels, the HumidiKit removes that daily task and generally produces steadier humidity, which tends to improve hatch rates on eggs that are sensitive to moisture loss, like waterfowl and reptile eggs. Hatchers in dry climates see the biggest benefit, since ambient air alone often cannot keep a HovaBator in range without help.
FAQ (People Also Ask)
Q: Does the HumidiKit fit the HovaBator 1588, 1602N, and 2370?
Ans: Yes. It is compatible with all three HovaBator models, along with most incubators that have a ½ inch vent hole and enough interior clearance for the probe.
Q: What humidity should I use for the HovaBator 1588?
Ans: Aim for 45 to 50 percent during the setting period, then raise the setpoint to 65 to 70 percent for lockdown, about 2 to 3 days before hatch. Adjust for species using the Incubation Learning Center's guidance.
Q: How long does it take the HumidiKit to raise humidity?
Ans: Most tabletop incubators respond within a few hours of the humidifier cycling on, but the reading needs a full 24 hours to fully stabilize after installation or after a setpoint change.
Q: How often do I need to refill the HumidiKit?
Ans: Several days to about a week in a standard tabletop incubator, depending on your room's ambient humidity and how often the incubator is opened. Hot or dry environments need more frequent refills.
Q: Can I use tap water instead of distilled water?
Ans: You can, but distilled water is recommended because it prevents mineral buildup that can clog the humidifier and shorten its life.
Q: Why is my HovaBator humidity reading fluctuating after installing the HumidiKit?
Ans: Give the incubator at least 24 hours to stabilize. If it is still swinging after that, check that the probe is not sitting directly in the fan's airflow or the humidifier's mist path, and confirm the vent hole is not letting out more air than the unit can offset.
Q: Can I install the HumidiKit without drilling a hole?
Ans: Yes. The kit is designed to run through an existing ½ inch vent hole on the HovaBator, so no drilling is required on standard models.
Q: Can I run the HumidiKit alongside the incubator's built-in water channels?
Ans: Yes, though most hatchers find the HumidiKit alone is enough once it is dialed in, and running both can push humidity too high.
Q: Where can I find replacement parts if my HumidiKit tubing or probe wears out?
Ans: Incubator Warehouse stocks HumidiKit replacement parts for the hygrostat, tubing, and humidifier components.
Get Your HovaBator Humidity Dialed In
A correct HumidiKit HovaBator setup comes down to two things: probe placement and patience during the first 24 hours. Get those right, and the system runs quietly in the background for the rest of the hatch. If you are setting up a new incubator from scratch, browse the HovaBator 1588 combo kits to see bundles that already include the HumidiKit, or check the Humidity Control collection if you are adding one to an incubator you already own.
