Quick answer: How do you set up the HovaBator Genesis 2370? Place the HovaBator Genesis 2370 on a level surface in a draft-free room at 70 to 80°F. Assemble the plastic liner and floor, fill the humidity trough with cool tap water, set the thermostat to 99.5°F, and run it empty for 12 to 24 hours before adding eggs. For chicken eggs, keep humidity at 50 to 55%, then raise it to 65 to 70% at lockdown on day 18.
| Setting | Chicken eggs |
|---|---|
| Temperature (circulated air) | 99.5°F |
| Humidity, days 1 to 17 | 50 to 55% |
| Humidity at lockdown, days 18 to 21 | 65 to 70% |
| Turning | 3 to 5 times a day until day 17 |
| Test run before eggs | 12 to 24 hours |
If you just unboxed a Hova-Bator 2370 Circulated Air Incubator with Electronic Thermostat, the good news is that this is one of the simplest incubators to get running correctly. The bad news is that "simple" does not mean "foolproof". Most failed hatches with this unit trace back to a handful of setup mistakes in the first 30 minutes, not to bad eggs or bad luck.
This guide walks through the full HovaBator Genesis 2370 setup from unboxing to lockdown. By the end you will know where to place it, how to fill the water troughs, what temperature to set, and how to avoid the humidity swings that trip up most first-time users.
Table of Contents
- What is included with the HovaBator Genesis 2370
- What you will need before you start
- Step 1: Pick the right location
- Step 2: Assemble the incubator
- Step 3: Set up the humidity troughs
- Step 4: Install the automatic egg turner
- Step 5: Power on and set the thermostat
- Step 6: Run a 24-hour test
- Step 7: Load your eggs
- Step 8: Monitor daily
- Step 9: Prepare for lockdown
- Setup reference table by species
- Common setup mistakes
- After the hatch
- FAQ
What Is Included With the HovaBator Genesis 2370
The base unit has the essentials, but a few pieces most hatchers consider mandatory are sold as add-ons. Here is what is in the box:
| Item | Included? |
|---|---|
| HovaBator 2370 incubator body with Styrofoam insulation | Yes |
| Electronic thermostat | Yes |
| Power cord | Yes |
| Printed user guide | Yes |
| Automatic egg turner | No, sold separately |
| Hygrometer (humidity gauge) | No, sold separately |
| Egg candler | No, sold separately |
If you would rather not hunt for each accessory, the HovaBator 2370 combo kits bundle the incubator with a turner, candler, hygrometer, and hatch guidebook at a lower combined price than buying them one at a time.
What You Will Need Before You Start
Beyond what is in the box, gather these before you begin the HovaBator Genesis incubator setup:
- An automatic egg turner: Manual turning means turning eggs by hand 3 to 5 times a day without fail for nearly three weeks. Most hatchers who try it once switch to an automatic egg turner. Not sure you need one? See our HovaBator egg turner guide.
- An independent thermometer and hygrometer: The 2370 does not measure humidity. A separate gauge such as the IncuTherm Plus gives you a real humidity reading instead of a guess.
- An egg candler, so you can check fertility and development around day 7 and again before lockdown.
- A level, stable surface in a room that stays within a fairly narrow temperature range.
- Cool tap water for the humidity troughs.
How to Set Up the HovaBator Genesis 2370, Step by Step
Step 1: Pick the Right Location

Location matters more than most people expect. The 2370 is designed to bring room temperature up to incubation temperature, not to fight a cold or fluctuating room. A room at 70 to 80°F is ideal. If the room regularly drops into the 60s, the incubator has to work harder, and swings of 10°F or more in the room will show up as swings inside the unit.
Keep it away from:
- Direct sunlight, which can overheat the incubator even with a working thermostat
- Drafts from windows, doors, air vents, or fans
- Surfaces that are not level, since uneven placement can affect water in the troughs
A basement or interior room with stable temperature usually works better than a garage, sunroom, or anywhere near an exterior wall.
Step 2: Assemble the Incubator

Separate the top half of the incubator, which houses the heating element, fan, and thermostat, from the bottom half. Lay the plastic liner flat inside the bottom, then place the incubator floor on top of the liner, lining it up with the water trough openings and the notch for the turner's power cord.
Check that the fan, heating element, and thermostat sensor in the top half are properly seated, and wipe down the liner if there is any manufacturing residue.
Step 3: Set Up the Humidity Troughs

This step is where most humidity problems start. The floor has several small built-in reservoirs. In most climates, filling the first trough, usually the one closest to the center, is enough to hold 50 to 55% humidity. Keep these points in mind:
- Surface area determines humidity, not depth: Adding more water to a full trough does not raise humidity. Filling a second, wider trough does.
- Use cool tap water, not warm or distilled.
- Avoid spilling water outside the troughs: Water on the floor throws off your humidity reading and can affect the eggs above it.
- If your home is dry and humidity will not climb, a clean damp sponge adds surface area without needing a wider trough.
- If humidity runs too high, reduce the exposed water surface, for example with a small piece of clean Styrofoam that partly covers the trough. See our guide to lowering humidity in an incubator.
Step 4: Install the Automatic Egg Turner

If you are using an automatic turner, place it on the incubator floor now, before you power on. Position it so the power cord exits cleanly through the corner notch, which keeps the lid seated and prevents air leaks. Confirm before loading eggs that you can still top off water through a gap without removing the turner.
Leave the turner running throughout incubation. You will remove it only at lockdown (Step 9).
Step 5: Power On and Set the Thermostat
Plug in the incubator and let the display power up. The HovaBator 2370's electronic thermostat lets you switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius, so choose your unit first.
For chicken eggs, the standard forced-air (circulated air) setting is 99.5°F. Because this model circulates air with a fan, 99.5°F applies across the incubator, unlike a still-air unit where temperature varies by shelf height. For other species, see the reference table below.
Step 6: Run a 24-Hour Test Before Adding Eggs
Do not load eggs the moment the display reaches your target. Let the incubator run empty for at least 12 to 24 hours first. This gives the thermostat time to stabilize, shows whether the temperature holds steady, and lets you catch a defective unit before it carries a batch of eggs.
Use this time to check your independent hygrometer against the range you are aiming for, and make final trough adjustments.
Step 7: Load Your Eggs

Bring eggs to room temperature, roughly 70 to 75°F, before loading. Going straight from a cold fridge or basement into a hot incubator causes condensation on the shell. Place eggs on their side in the turner tray, or directly on the wire floor if you turn by hand.
Approximate capacity of the HovaBator 2370 without a turner:
| Egg type | Approximate capacity |
|---|---|
| Chicken | 46 |
| Quail | 188 |
| Pheasant | 90 |
| Turkey or duck | 40 |
With the automatic turner's universal tray installed, capacity is commonly cited at around 42 chicken, 70 quail or 28 goose eggs, because the tray takes up floor space.
Step 8: Monitor Daily
Check temperature and humidity once a day, at the same time if you can. Avoid opening the lid unless necessary, because every opening drops temperature and humidity.
Candle your eggs around day 7 and again between day 14 and day 17 to check development. A quality egg candler makes this much easier, especially with dark-shelled eggs. A remote probe monitor such as the IncuTherm Plus Hatch Monitor lets you read temperature and humidity without opening the lid.
Step 9: Prepare for Lockdown
Three days before the expected hatch, on day 18 for chicken eggs with their 21-day incubation, start lockdown:
- Remove the automatic egg turner and unplug it.
- Lay the eggs on their sides directly on the incubator floor.
- Raise humidity to 65 to 70% by filling more troughs or adding a damp sponge.
- Stop turning eggs completely.
- Do not open the lid unless absolutely necessary. Every opening drops humidity just when chicks need it most to pip.
Setup Reference Table by Species
| Species | Incubation period | Temperature (circulated air) | Humidity before lockdown | Lockdown starts | Humidity at lockdown |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chicken | 21 days | 99.5°F | 50 to 55% | Day 18 | 65 to 70% |
| Quail (Coturnix) | 17 to 18 days | 99.5°F | 45 to 55% | Day 14 to 15 | 65 to 70% |
| Pheasant | 23 to 24 days | 99.5°F | 50 to 55% | Day 21 | 65 to 70% |
| Duck | 28 days | 99.5°F | 55 to 60% | Day 25 | 65 to 75% |
| Turkey | 28 days | 99.5°F | 55 to 60% | Day 25 | 65 to 70% |
Planning to hatch quail? Our guide to incubating quail eggs covers turner selection and the tighter tolerances quail eggs need. For ducks, see incubating duck eggs in a HovaBator.
Common Setup Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the test run: loading eggs before the thermostat has stabilized is the most common reason for a rough start
- Filling every trough at once: overfilling pushes humidity too high too early, which is as damaging as running it too low
- Placing the incubator near a window or vent: a stable thermostat still struggles against drafts or direct sun
- Opening the lid too often: constant checking is a common cause of inconsistent humidity, especially before lockdown
- Forgetting to remove the turner at lockdown: eggs need to lie flat and still for the final stretch, and a running turner can interfere with hatching chicks
- No backup hygrometer: the 2370 does not read humidity, so skipping a separate gauge means incubating blind on one of the two key variables
After the Hatch
Once chicks start pipping, resist the urge to help unless a chick is clearly stuck well past a normal hatch window. Leave hatched chicks in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy, typically 12 to 24 hours, before moving them to a brooder. Have the brooder, feeder, and waterer ready before hatch day. Our after-hatch supplies collection covers brooders, feeders, and waterers for exactly this stage. When the hatch is done, see how to clean and sanitize a HovaBator between hatches.
FAQs (People Also Ask)
Q: What temperature should the HovaBator Genesis 2370 be set to for chicken eggs?
Ans: Set the thermostat to 99.5°F. The 2370 uses circulated air, so 99.5°F applies across the whole incubator, a little lower than a still-air unit. Confirm the reading with a separate thermometer at egg level after the 24-hour test run.
Q: What humidity should I use in the HovaBator 2370?
Ans: For chicken eggs, keep humidity at 50 to 55% for days 1 to 17, then raise it to 65 to 70% at lockdown on day 18. Other species differ, so use the species table in this guide. The 2370 does not read humidity, so add a separate hygrometer.
Q: Does the HovaBator 2370 include a hygrometer?
Ans: No. The incubator controls temperature, but humidity has to be tracked with a separate hygrometer, which is sold separately and included in the combo kits. Place it near the eggs, away from open water.
Q: How long should I run the incubator before adding eggs?
Ans: Run it empty for 12 to 24 hours. This lets the thermostat stabilize, shows whether the temperature holds steady, and lets you catch a faulty unit before it is carrying eggs.
Q: How many eggs does the HovaBator 2370 hold?
Ans: Without a turner, about 46 chicken eggs, 188 quail eggs, 90 pheasant eggs or 40 turkey or duck eggs. With the automatic turner's universal tray installed, capacity drops to roughly 42 chicken, 70 quail or 28 goose eggs.
Q: Do I need an automatic egg turner for the HovaBator 2370?
Ans: Not strictly, but if you skip it you must turn the eggs by hand 3 to 5 times a day, using an odd number of turns. Most hatchers prefer an automatic turner, because missed manual turns are a common cause of poor hatches.
Q: Why does my humidity keep swinging after I set up the troughs?
Ans: The most frequent cause is opening the lid too often. Each opening drops temperature and humidity, and the recovery adds up over three weeks. A remote probe monitor lets you check readings without lifting the lid.
Q: What is the best place to put the HovaBator 2370?
Ans: Use a level surface in a draft-free room that stays between 70 and 80°F. Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from windows, doors, vents and fans. An interior room or basement is usually better than a garage or sunroom.
Q: Can I use the HovaBator 2370 for duck eggs?
Ans: Yes. Use 99.5°F, 55 to 60% humidity before lockdown and 65 to 75% from day 25 until hatch on day 28. Ducks need more water surface area than chickens, so fill more troughs. See our guide to incubating duck eggs in a HovaBator.
Q: Can I use the HovaBator 2370 for reptile eggs?
Ans: Yes. The 2370 has an optional fan shut-off, so you can run it as a still-air incubator for reptile and amphibian eggs that do better without circulated air. A reptile kit is also available.
Q: What is the difference between the HovaBator 2370 and the Genesis 1588?
Ans: Both are Styrofoam HovaBators, but the 2370 uses circulated air with a fan, while the 1588 is the digital Genesis model. See our side-by-side comparison to pick the better fit for your first incubator.
Complete Your Hatch
The HovaBator Genesis 2370 setup is not complicated, but it rewards patience in the first day more than almost any other incubator. Get the location right, get the humidity troughs right, and run a proper test before eggs go in, and the rest of the incubation tends to take care of itself. Still deciding? The HovaBator 2370 combo kits are the fastest way to get everything for a first hatch in one order. Comparing models? Read our HovaBator 2370 vs 1588 comparison or the Genesis 2370 and 1588 review.
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